WatchTime Apr 2014

Coverstory: Breguet - Magnets In The Movements


A. Lange & Söhne, Arnold & Son, Baume & Mercier, Breguet, Jacob Jensen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Oris, Rolex


Feature, Interview, Knowledge, Review, Watchmakers



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WatchTime April 2014
WatchTime April 2014 Editorial Content 1 Content 2


  • BREGUET’S MAGNETIC MOMENT By Joe Thompson | Montres Breguet’s patented magnetic pivot could be a game changer for mechanical watches, and CEO Marc A. Hayek sees it as the natural evolution of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s spirit of innovation. Here’s the story behind the Classique Chronométrie 7727.


  • INTELLIGENT DESIGN By Jens Koch | A. Lange & Söhne has reworked the large version of its Lange 1 watch, the Grand Lange 1, giving it a bigger movement and better proportions. The result is a more readable dial and improved aesthetics. We put it through a WatchTime test to see if its performance matches its good looks.
  • SLENDER CONTENDER By Mike Disher | Just 9.2 mm thick, the Jaeger- LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual packs a bundle of complexity – a JLC Caliber 899 base movement with in-house perpetual-calendar module − into its slender case. Did it ace our test?
  • PRESSURE TACTICS By Jens Koch | Oris took the plunge by incorporating its depth gauge into the watch’s crystal – a watchmaking first. We strapped the Oris Aquis Depth Gauge to the wrist of a diver to see how it performed under the pressure of a deep-sea submersion.
  • THE THINNER SPINNER By Mike Disher | We test the Arnold & Son UTTE, or Ultra Thin Tourbillon Escapement, which turned heads at last year’s Baselworld as one of several noteworthy new Arnold models.
  • MADE TO MEASURE By Julia Knaut | The Meistersinger Pangaea and the Mühle-Glashütte M 29 Classic are both inspired by the design of measuring instruments. They have similar styling and both are German made. But one fared better in our test. Find out which.
  • PAST AS PRESENT By Alexander Krupp | Baume & Mercier introduced a new collection last year, the Clifton, modeled on classically styled watches of the 1950s. We test the small seconds model to see how it measures up.
  • SEND IN THE CROWN By Alexander Krupp | If you’ve ever had trouble grasping a teensy watch crown, Longines has got your number. The Avigation Oversize Crown lives up to its name, and then some.


  • 7 STARS FROM SIHH | What gives a watch star quality? An innovative movement? Beautiful styling? Over-the-top workmanship? It’s all in the eye of the beholder. After SIHH in Geneva, WatchTime editors chose the watches they thought were the fair’s real standouts. Here are seven of them.
  • REMAKING MOSER By Jay Deshpande | H. Moser & Cie. was a collectors’ darling when it first appeared in the mid- 2000s, but its production never got off the ground. Now under new ownership, the brand is streamlining production and focusing on profitability – and hoping for a second chance.
  • WHEN ROLEX WENT QUARTZ By Lucien Trueb | In this excerpt from his book “Electrifying the Wristwatch,” watch expert Lucien Trueb tells the story of how mechanical-watch king Rolex dealt with the arrival of quartz in the 1970s.
  • BACK IS BEAUTIFUL Our latest portfolio of fine mechanical watches that are as intriguing from the back as from the front.

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