WatchTime April 2021

COLLERCTORS IN CONVERSATION +++ LONGLINE PIONEERS: RADO CAPTAIN COOK +++ REVIEWS. TAG HEUER | CARRERA | CHRONOGRAPH; ORIS | AQUIS CAL. 400; BREITLING | CHRONOMAT | CHRONOGRAPH +++ BVLGARI: THE NEXT GENERATION OF THE OCTO FINISSIMO

Brands

Breitling, Bulgari, Longines, Oris, Rado, TAG Heuer

Topics

Feature, Interview, Knowledge, Review, Watchmakers

SKU

USM2102

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WatchTime April 2021

COVER STORY

EDGE OF TOMORROW

By Roger Ruegger | For 2021, Bulgari is introducing three new versions within its Octo Finissimo range, the Chronograph GMT in stainless steel (S), the Octo Finissimo S in a new monochrome style, and the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Titanium with a new black dial and rubber strap.

TESTS & REVIEWS

WINE FOR THE CAPTAIN

By Mark Bernardo | Rado combines a nautically inspired bronze case with a lush, burgundy-colored dial and bezel insert in the most vibrantly colorful model to date in the Captain Cook collection.



NOW CLOSED!

By Alexander Krupp | Carrera models encasing the manufacture Calibre Heuer 02 have been available since 2018, but the series lacked a classic version with a closed dial. Now TAG Heuer has closed that gap in the line in an attractive way.



NEW STANDARD

By Martina Richter | Oris is presenting a new movement that suits its functional watches and its customer base. Calibre 400 runs five days and offers increased antimagnetic protection and an extended warranty of 10 years. It debuts in the Aquis Date dive watch.



COOL AS ICE

By Mark Bernardo | Glashütte Original’s retro-chic Sixties collection welcomes the first chronograph model to its series of Annual Editions, but the popular complication is just the tip of the iceberg — or rather, the glacier?



HEAVEN SENT

By Martina Richter | The new Spirit collection from Longines recalls the pioneering spirit of early aviators and explorers and connects this story — in the form of design and technology — to the present. We tested the chronograph model with a blue dial.



UNIVERSAL GENIUS

By Martina Richter | The new Chronomat recalls the return of mechanical timekeeping in the 1980s and Breitling’s role as a chronograph pioneer. The Rouleaux bracelet brings a retro look, while modern manufacture Caliber 01 points toward the future.



S STANDS FOR SPORT

By Alexander Krupp | With a sturdier case, increased water resistance and a robust strap, Junghans has reworked its classically elegant Meister Chronoscope for a sportier look and feel — truly earning the new “S” in its name.

FEATURES

THE LONG AND WINDING ROAD

By Mark Bernardo | Porsche Design has been uniting the worlds of automotive design and horological innovation for nearly half a century, and its recent rebirth as an independent watchmaker takes the synergy to the next level.



READY FOR TAKEOFF

By Rüdiger Bucher | Daring pilots relied on Longines watches aboard their flying machines in the 1920s and 1930s. The brand’s new Spirit models recall this exciting history.



HOROLOGICAL HONEY HUNTERS

By Roger Ruegger | WatchTime reached out to three collectors from different parts of the world to talk about their collections, the industry, waiting lists and grail watches.



SWISS ARMY DIVER

By Roger Ruegger | During the 1970s, the Swiss Armed Forces trained a small unit of combat divers and swimmers. Members were equipped with the orange-dial Sub 300T Professional from Doxa. We look at the history of what appears to be the only officially issued mechanical dive watch to ever have served in the Swiss military.