WatchTime October 2021

OMEGA VS. ROLEX: HISTORY OF THE TOURBILLON - ULYSSE NARDIN: 175 YEARS +++ REVIEWS: TUDOR - BLACK BAY 925 | GRAND SEIKO - ‚WHITE BIRCH‘ | TAG HEUER - CARRERA +++ PANEREAI: A NEW GERNERATION OF CHRONOGRAPHS

Brands

Omega, Panerai, Rolex, Seiko, TAG Heuer, Tudor

Topics

Feature, Interview, Knowledge, Review, Watchmakers

SKU

USM2105

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WatchTime October 2021

COVER STORY

IL RITORNO DI CRONOGRAFO

By Roger Ruegger | For 2021, Panerai returns to the field
of chronography with several new releases in the Submersible and Luminor collections. One of them even offers a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

TESTS & REVIEWS

THE BEAUTY OF NATURE

By Martina Richter | The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Series 9 SLGH005, powered by the high-beat Caliber 9SA5, is inspired by the white Shirakaba birch trees that grow near the studio in Shizukuishi. Our test examines how nature and watchmaking are reflected in this creation.

REENLISTMENT

By Roger Ruegger | Named after the United States Navy’s Bureau of Ships “water-tightness specifications of MIL-SHIPS-W-2181,” American watch brand Bulova brings back two variants of its U.S. Navy prototype dive watch from the 1950s.

AMONG FRIENDS

By Martina Richter | The official partnership between TAG Heuer and Porsche was a natural choice. These two companies have been linked for years. Yet the news came as a shock. Reason enough for the watch manufacturer to launch a special model and for us to test it straight away.

THE PRO

By Alexander Krupp | Pro as in professional — when it comes
to utility, not many modern mechanical dive watches on the market can compete with the new Oris AquisPro Date with the brand’s in-house Calibre 400.

NAVIGATING THROUGH THE YEARS

By Roger Ruegger | For its 175th anniversary, Ulysse Nardin is introducing an impressive fleet of Marine Torpilleur limited editions. WatchTime has already set sail with the chronograph with annual calendar onboard.

“H” AS IN HAND-WOUND

By Alexander Krupp | With the Intra-Matic Chronograph H, Hamilton offers fans of retro styling a high quality, inexpensive stopwatch. What’s special is that Hamilton deliberately left out a date display and automatic winding.

SILVER TREASURE

By Jens Koch | Tudor is bringing silver back onto the scene. How good is this watch with the striking taupe dial?

FEATURES

AN ULTRA-SLIM TALISMAN

By Roger Ruegger | As the Florentine luxury brand marks its 100th anniversary, Gucci launches a High Watchmaking collection spearheaded by the introduction of the GUCCI 25H and the brand’s first exclusive movement with micro-rotor.

WHIRLWIND ROMANCE

By Mark Bernardo | From its utilitarian roots in the 19th century, the tourbillon has evolved in the modern era to become the ultimate expression of watchmakers’ technical prowess and avant-garde creativity.

TECHNICAL DIVING

By Jens Koch | Blancpain’s quintessential dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms, is also available with a variety of complications — even a tourbillon. Back in 1953, it was the first watch to feature a true diving bezel.

COMPETITION IN THE SEA

By Jens Koch | Rolex and Omega are renowned and admired for their dive watches. In direct comparison, which one of the two leading brands dives deeper, offers more value for the money and performs better?