COVER STORY
PERFECT BALANCING ACT
By Roger Ruegger | Five years ago, Vacheron Constantin introduced its first self-winding tourbillon movement in two versions in the Traditionnelle collection. We take a closer look at the latest two releases in the collection, the Traditonnelle Tourbillon with green dial and the Tourbillon with retrograde date.
TESTS & REVIEWS
RED LINE
By Martina Richter | The Tudor Black Bay was introduced in 2012 with a burgundy-red bezel and in 2016, was equipped with an in-house movement. The latest generation is designated as a Master Chronometer, with aesthetic and technical upgrades.
BUILT FOR EVERYDAY MISSIONS
By Martina Richter | Mühle-Glashütte celebrated the S.A.R. Rescue-Timer’s 20-year anniversary by expanding the family to include a model that takes what it acquired in the harsh maritime environment and applies it to everyday life. We tested the S.A.R. Mission-Timer Titan.
ICE DIVER
By Jens Koch | With this special edition of the reissue of a dive watch from 1968, Seiko presents an exciting dial that calls to mind the surface of an iceberg. We take a look at what’s beneath.
PERFECT FOCUS
By Martina Richter | With its timepieces first coming into focus in 2018, camera manufacturer Leica has now introduced the ZM 1 and ZM 2, inspired by the design language of its precision products. We took a close look at the ZM 2 with its GMT function.
HAVE THE TIMES FINALLY CAUGHT UP WITH THE FREAK?
By Bilal Khan | Released in 2001, the Ulysse Nardin Freak inspired a generation of hyper-creative watch designs. The new Freak One merges past with present and takes aim at the crowded field its forebear helped create.
TOTAL IMMERSION
By Martina Richter | Vibrant colors and practicality distinguish Mido’s new models of the Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer, which combine a decompression scale from the 1960s with a modern time-zone function and a world time bezel. We tested this special edition on the wrist.
FEATURES
MAIDEN FLIGHT
By Roger Ruegger | The year 2023 finally brings a new Type XX from Breguet. Issued in two versions, one military inspired, and the other drawing on the brand’s civilian models, the latest generation of the pilots’ watch also features an all-new chronograph caliber.
A LEGACY TO BE PROUD OF
By Martin Green | How the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking gave the Valjoux 7750 a second chance for achieving greatness 100 CASUAL WEAR By Roger Ruegger | In May 2023, Citizen Watch Company of America announced it would introduce five variants of the highly successful NJ015 Automatic Series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” to the U.S. market. We went hands-on with the latest release.
THINGS GET COMPLICATED
By Martin Green | Exploring Frederique Constant’s world of perpetual calendars and tourbillons
EXTREME STRAPMAKING
By Martin Green | Manufacture Jean Rousseau’s passion for innovation
BLAST FROM THE PAST
By Martin Green | Carlo Ferrara Regulatore Sport 120 A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT By Roger Ruegger | The incredible story of how Portland-based IP attorney Shawn Kolitch got reunited with his dad’s Rolex — not once, but twice.
THE ASYMMETRICAL WORLD OF GILBERT ALBERT
By Bilal Khan | A career retrospective of the pioneering designer who, quite literally, broke the mold with his watch cases.
DEPARTMENTS & COLUMNS
PUBLISHER’S LETTER
EDITOR’S LETTER
ON WATCHTIME.COM
A glimpse at what’s on our site to keep you up to date on the latest watch news. It’s also where Martin Green rambles. OF WATCHTIME See the global reach of WatchTime and its partners
READERS’ FORUM
WATCHTALK
Timepieces from Patek Philippe, Bulova, Rolex, MeisterSinger, G-Shock, and more
WATCHTALK
The watches of ‘Barbenheimer’
WATCHTALK
Christie’s shows stellar results from the first watch auctions of 2023.
FACETIME
A photo gallery of readers and their watches
THE LAST WORD
WatchTime talks with Alpina Brand Director Oliver van Lanschot Hubrecht.