WatchTime April 2006

Patek Philippe +++ Tests: IWC vs. Dornblüth, Maurice Lacroix, Montblanc +++ From Russia with Love: Watch Culture after the Cold War

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Feature, Interview, Knowledge, Review, Watchmakers

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WatchTime April 2006

WATCH TESTS

  • MASSIVE CALIBERS By Jens Koch | IWC’s Portugieser F. A. Jones and D. Dornblüth & Sohn’s 99.1 share one trait in common: pocket-watches served as godfathers for the design and movements of both models. In all other respects, the differences essentially boil down to a duel between a family business and a globally active concern.
  • ALL IN THE FAMILY By Witold A. Michalczyk | The chronograph that Maurice Lacroix debuted last year in Basel is the new leader in the Pontos line. The first challenge we faced in this test was to find the push-pieces on this top-of-the-line timekeeper.
  • PURE AND SIMPLE By Jens Koch | The MIH Watch from the International Museum of Horology in La Chaux-de-Fonds cannot be compared to any other wristwatch. This recent debutante features an ingenious annual calendar mechanism designed by Ludwig Oechslin. It consists of just nine parts.
  • GLOBAL THINKING By Witold A. Michalczyk | The Timewalker GMT is the fourth variant in this series of watches from Montblanc.

FEATURES

  • PATEK PHILIPPE'S ONE-EYED WONDER By Joe Thompson | Patek Philippe's first ever automatic chronograph watch is an annual calendar with an unconventional, eye-catching chronograph subdial.
  • FROM ICE TO NICE By Ed Kiersh | Jacob Arabo, AKA “Jacob the Jeweler” has been in the jewelry and watch business for 20 years and is arguably the hottest phenomenon in the diamond world, constantly attending celebrity parties in Tokyo, Paris and the Hamptons. As if that weren’t enough he’s now set his sights on conquering the haute horological world of high-complications. Will he succeed?
  • GOLD RUSH | The mystical gleam of gold has fascinated people for millennia. And skilled artisans have crafted jewelry from this precious metal for an equally long time. But the newcomers on the following pages evoke enthusiasm not only thanks to their gleaming appearances, but also because of their mechanical inner lives.
  • A GERMAN REBIRTH By Lucien F. Treub | In the course of his long life, Walter Lange has twice been an eyewitness to terrible devastation and laborious rebuilding. The widespread destruction during the cataclysm of World War II was followed by universal rebuilding during Germany’s “economic miracle” years. After the fall of the Berlin Wall, Lange Uhren GmbH was founded anew in 1990.
  • SKYWALKER By Matthew Morse | Martin Braun has made a name for himself by creating affordable, yet incredibly innovative astronomical timepieces. He may start out with basic ETA movements, but his final results are always original.
  • CITIZEN'S HAND-ASSEMBLED QUARTZ By Joe Thompson | Japan's quartz watch colossus has more than doubled its number of certified master watchmakers in this decade. Why? Because its latest development in quartz technology is eerily mechanical.
  • FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE By Witold A. Michalczyk | Russia is a nation in transition. The country’s watch industry is also undergoing rapid changes.
  • FROM INK DROPS TO COLUMN WHEELS By Gisbert L. Brunner | In the 21st century, the chronograph continues to fascinate serious watch enthusiasts. The history of this complication began with a tiny droplet of ink 180 years ago.
  • INDEPENDENCE DAY By Lucien F. Treub | The man behind RGM, Roland G. Murphy, is considered by most aficionados to be the premiere maker of mechanical wristwatches in North America.
  • FOLK HOROLOGY By Hans-Peter Reif | A good watch for a small amount of money. This is the motto for which Kienzle, one of the oldest German watch brands, stood in the past and still stands behind today. The traditional enterprise was under Asian management from 1996 until 2005, when it returned to German ownership.
  • THE POKER KING By Ed Kiersh | Doyle Brunson started life as a humble farm boy from the dusty plains of West Texas and went on to become one of the world’s most successful gamblers. He popularized the game of poker with a bestselling book in the 1970s and his discipline and code of ethics has made gambling almost an acceptable career choice.

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