WatchTime August 2014

Cartier Calibre Diver +++ IWC Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Miramar +++ Bell & Ross BR 03-51 GMT +++ Zenith Pilot Montre D’Aéronef Type 20 GMT +++ Montblanc Montre Meisterstück Heritage Collection +++


Bell & Ross, Cartier, IWC, Montblanc, TAG Heuer, Tudor


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WatchTime August 2014
WatchTime August 2014 Editorial


  • TWO TIMERS By Alexander Krupp | One sporty chrono, the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 Jack Heuer Edition, meets another, the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue, in our comparative test.


  • TEST CASE By Mike Disher | Is Cartier’s new dive watch, the Calibre Diver, more than just a pretty face? We find out.
  • FLYING SAUCERS By Martina Richter | These three pilots’ watches all have humongous cases, like those of the earliest watches for flyers. We take a close look at the distinctive features of all three: the IWC Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Miramar, the Bell & Ross BR 03-51 GMT and the Zenith Pilot Montre D’Aéronef Type 20 GMT.
  • WRITE ON TIME By Martina Richter | Montblanc Montre launched the Meisterstück Heritage Collection to mark the 90th birthday of its well-known Meisterstück pen. We test the collection’s perpetual calendar model.
  • CODE NAME ULTRA By Mike Disher | Bremont’s latest limited-edition watch, the Codebreaker, is literally made of the stuff of history – Britain’s WWII intelligence operations, to be precise. We test this GMT flyback chronograph to decipher its story.


  • FINALLY, SOME SENSIBLE PRICING By Joe Thompson | Baselworld showed signs that Swiss brands are adjusting to the post-China-boom landscape. That means a greater focus on lower-priced products.
  • THE NEW WATCHES Our annual roundup of new watches from the world’s biggest watch fair
  • ETERNA EYES THE U.S. MARKET By Joe Thompson | China Haidian, the Hong Kong group that bought the Swiss brand Eterna in 2011, is investing heavily to revive it on global markets.
  • ULTRA COMPLICATIONS GO ULTRA THIN By Joe Thompson | Breguet’s Ref. 5377 is the thinnest automatic tourbillon watch on the market. The brand’s CEO Marc A. Hayek tells the story behind it.
  • THOMAS MERCER MAKES BASELWORLD DEBUT By Mike Disher | The once-famous British marinechronometer maker Thomas Mercer, out of business for a quarter century, is back. This year it made its maiden voyage to Baselworld.
  • BABIN BEGINS THE BULGARI MAKEOVER By Joe Thompson | Now under the leadership of CEO Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari unveils the thinnest tourbillon watch ever.
  • SHINOLA EXPANDS ITS OPERATIONS By Joe Thompson | Since opening its factory in Detroit in 2012, Shinola has been expanding its operations there. New this year: a leather factory and a line of watches for Filson.


  • EDITOR’S LETTER The brewing storm over leap seconds
  • ON WATCHTIME.COM A glimpse at what’s on our site to keep you up to date on the latest watch news
  • WORLD OF WATCHTIME See the global reach of WatchTime and its partners
  • READERS’ FORUM WatchTime readers protest a recent watch-test score, debunk tourbillons, point out anachronistic watches in movies, and more
  • WATCHTALK New CEOs at Rolex, Zenith, and Raymond Weil; Jaquet Droz’s newest writing mechanism; Thierry Stern plans a party; the biggest U.S. watch advertisers for 2013; Visconti’s see-through watch; and more
  • WATCH QUIZ A commemorative quiz on Patek Philippe, which turns 175 this year
  • FACETIME A photo mélange of readers and their watches LAST MINUTE Richemont, retail giant

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