WatchTime Dec 2013

We test the Rolex Sky-Dweller which has a GMT function and an annual calendar

Brands

Citizen, Girard-Perregaux, Perrelet, Rolex, Vacheron Constantin, Victorinox Swiss Army, Zenith

Topics

Feature, Interview, Knowledge, Review, Watchmakers

SKU

USM1306

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WatchTime Dec 2013

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WatchTime Dec 2013
WatchTime Dec 2013 Content 1

COVER STORY

  • LIVING HIGH By Jens Koch | We test the Sky-Dweller, Rolex’s pricey, top-of-the-line watch for frequent flyers. It has a GMT function and an annual calendar with unusual month display. Our test goes in depth to look at exactly how Rolex’s patented annual calendar function and “Ring Command” bezel operate.

TESTS

  • BIG TIME By Mike Disher | With a 48-mm case, an outsize crown, and one of the biggest buckles we’ve ever seen, Zenith’s Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar is a vintage-style pilots’ watch of Spruce Goose proportions. It also combines an El Primero chronograph movement with Ludwig Oechslin’s annual calendar complication. How high did it fly in our test?
  • TURBINE TIMER By Mike Disher | Perrelet launches a new chronograph with an unusual characteristic: it has a whirling turbine visible under a sapphire dial. This feature, combined with a rotatingdisk central chronograph minutes counter, makes for an unusual display. We take the Turbine Chrono for a spin.
  • EYEING THE HAWK By Mike Disher | The Chrono Hawk is one of the first new models Girard-Perregaux has produced since 2011, when CEO Michele Sofisti dramatically pared down the brand’s product line. The Hawks are now G-P’s only sports collection. We see what happens when the Chrono Hawk stretches its wings.
  • WELL-ARMED By Alexander Krupp | A little something for those interested in an introductory-level mechanical watch: we test the Victorinox Infantry Automatic. This watch has simple, military styling and a no-frills price to match.

FEATURES

  • ROLEX MILESTONES By Gisbert L. Brunner | Through a century of technical innovations and memorable designs, Rolex has established itself as the most popular watch brand in the world. From its founding by Hans Wilsdorf to recent watershed timepieces, WatchTime tracks red-letter moments in the 108-year history of the brand.
  • A WATCH OF NOTE By Mike Disher | At just over 8 mm, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine Calibre 1731 is the thinnest Minute repeater wristwatch in the world, and it also meets the Geneva Seal standard. We take a look at how Vacheron designed, developed and produced this world-record holder.
  • CITIZEN’S SURPRISES By Jay Deshpande | Citizen of America has introduced some unexpected offerings: mechanicals at the top of the line, and Drive, a new collection of fashion watches, at the bottom. WatchTime takes a look at the strategy and new releases of the brand that created Eco-Drive technology.
  • MECHANICAL MAN By Norma Buchanan | In the worst days of the quartz crisis, when Swiss watch brands were hemorrhaging money and employees, Ulrich Herzog became chief of moribund Oris. Over the years that followed, he gradually steered it towards its current course: as a value-oriented, all-mechanical watch company. Here’s the tale of his 30-year journey with Oris.
  • OBJECT LESSONS By Jay Deshpande | Visiting the new “Time and Navigation” exhibit at the Smithsonian, WatchTime talks to curator Carlene Stephens about her work preserving America’s timekeeping heritage. Timepieces tell us a lot more than the time, she says: they speak volumes about the societies that make and use them.
  • SHINOLA WATCHES? NO SH*T! By Joe Thompson | The idea may sound crazy, but a savvy gang of watch veterans is out to make Detroit “the new watchmaking capital of America.” As Shinola’s first watches are delivered, WatchTime takes a look at the all-American story of this brand with big plans to revitalize industry in Detroit.
  • GOING THROUGH A PHASE Like the moon, moon-phase watches wax and wane. They’re popular for a while, then nearly disappear, then come back again. This year they waxed to the max: the watch fairs in Basel and Geneva brought forth scores of new ones. Here’s a look at a few of them – a mix of the traditional and the offbeat.
  • SHOWTIME In September, WatchTime’s eighth year of Inside Basel/Geneva events attracted hundreds of watch collectors and aficionados across the country. IBG evenings were held in five cities; here is a look at what guests experienced at the one in Chicago.

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