WatchTime December 2005

Cartier +++ Perpetual Calendars +++ Tests: Patek Philippe World Time, Glashütte Original PanoMaticChrono +++ Creating the Seiko Spring Drive +++ Project 99: TAG Heuer Monaco +++ Vincent Calabrese


Cartier, Glashütte Original, Patek Philippe, Seiko


Feature, Interview, Knowledge, Review, Watchmakers



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WatchTime December 2005


  • THE GLOBETROTTER By Rüdiger Bucher | As our planet becomes ever more closely connected, a world-time wristwatch becomes progressively more practical. Especially when the watch is Ref. 5110 from Patek Philippe, which was designed to be a user-friendly and easy-to-operate companion for globetrotters.
  • DEPTH & DIMENSION By Rüdiger Bucher | Glashütte Original’s PanoMaticChrono breaks new ground in design and technology. Its focal points are the unconventional architecture of the dial, with its large sculptured annulus, and an innovative winding technique.
  • PREMIERE REDUX By Witold A. Michalczyk | The Chronoris was the first chronograph from the Oris brand. The new version of this classic wristwatch revives the styling of the 1970s, but several of the watch’s features have been updated.
  • BLUE NIGHT By Witold A. Michalczyk | “Marinemaster” is the name of the latest addition to Fortis’s B-42 line. We tested one of the first serially manufactured examples of this robust and sporty wristwatch.


  • WATCH OF THE YEAR 50 TECHNICAL INNOVATION AWARD 2006 By Gisbert L. Brunner | There were even more jaw-dropping models at the big watch shows in 2005 than there were in previous years. To select the contestants for the title of “The Most Innovative Watch of 2006,” the editors of WatchTime chose 19 timepieces, each of which represents a tangible technological breakthrough.
  • IN AETERNUM By Jens Koch | A perpetual calendar knows not only the different lengths of the months; it also keeps track of the leap-year cycle and automatically adds a 29th day to February every four years. It will continue to run correctly forever – that is, at least, until 2100 AD.
  • THE BREGUET OBSESSION By Maria-Bettina Eich | For as long as there have been Breguet watches, bidding for and acquiring them has been the ultimate thrill for connoisseurs and collectors. Breguet wrote horological history, and so too have the men who collected his inimitable timekeeping creations.
  • SELF-RELIANCE By Rüdiger Bucher | Balance spring, balance, escape wheel, lever: Parmigiani can now manufacture the most important components of a watch movement entirely on its own.
  • MAN-OF-WAR By Ed Kiersh | After a long day of surveying the art in the Uffizi Gallery Donnie Edwards, a linebacker for the San Diego Chargers, was strolling past the Duomo in Florence, Italy when a small, barely-lit watch shop that carried Panerai caught his attention.
  • THE BON VIVANT By Matthew Morse | The story behind Cartier’s Santos 100 Chronograph is one of the greatest legends in the watch business.
  • PROJECT 99 By Witold A. Michalczyk | The Monaco was the first chronograph with a water-resistant rectangular case. Heuer also gave it the first self-winding chronograph movement with a microrotor. And because Steve McQueen wore it, the watch quickly became a cult item.
  • SEIKO’S NEXT BIG THING: SPRING DRIVE By Joe Thompson | Seiko says its new automatic Spring Drive is the second most important watch it has ever produced.
  • BRANCHING OUT By Elena Federspiel and Matthew Morse | Poésies méchaniques – mechanical poems – is the phrase that Vincent Calabrese uses to describe some of his more exclusive timepieces. With the launch of the NHC (Nouvelle Horlogerie Calabrese) brand in 2004, the maestro is now making some great bread-and-butter timepieces for the watch lover on a more ordinary budget.
  • RAISING THE DOXA SUB By Joe Thompson | In the late 1970s, the Doxa SUB, the world’s first orange-dial dive watch, disappeared and was not produced for 25 years. Now it has resurfaced with a splash.
  • GUCCI FINALLY GETS WATCH-SAVVY By Joe Thompson | For years the iconic fashion firm has flubbed its watch business. Now a new watch-wise management team is out to put Gucci on the Swiss map.
  • MANUFACTURE ELECTRONIQUE By Matthew Morse | Pierre Nobs of Ventura watches has been making clean looking pieces of micro architecture that tell the time since 1990. Recently, he decided to abandon the analog mechanical timepiece in favor of digital readouts that utilize his manufacture movements.
  • PERFECT FOR THE ARCTIC WINTER By Joe Thompson | Ball’s night-reading mechanical thermometer watch works at -40 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • THE INDEPENDENT ONES By Christian Pfeiffer-Belli | The AHCI (Académie Horlogérie des Createurs Indépendants), which was founded 20 years ago, is as an association of independent watchmakers and the most important address for young, creative, horological artisans. The group currently counts 28 watchmakers among its members, plus a number of talented nonmembers who maintain close ties to their colleagues in the association.
  • FACE TO FACE By Ed Kiersh | Daniel Barth, the President and CEO of Lalique North America, is a fan of straightforward, yet beautifully-crafted, sports watches.


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