WatchTime October 2006

TAG Heuer's New Chrono Cred +++ Tests: Glashütte Original, Chronoswiss +++ Jaeger-LeCoultre: The new Reverso Squadra and Tryptique +++ Flight Time: IWC's New Pilot's Watches

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Feature, Interview, Knowledge, Review, Watchmakers

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WatchTime October 2006

COVER STORIES

  • TAG HEUER’S NEW CHRONO CRED By Joe Thompson | Despite its rich history, TAG Heuer has become known more for marketing savvy than watchmaking prowess. Under the LVMH luxury group, that is changing. The best evidence is the new Carrera Calibre 360, the first mechanical chronograph to measure time to 1/100th of a second, with a movement made in-house.
  • THE 100-PER-SECOND SOLUTION By Jens Koch | When TAG Heuer set out to create the world’s fastest and most precise mechanical chronograph, its engineers were faced with the challenge of overcoming the friction and oil depletion caused by lightning-fast oscillation. Their answer — a separate chronograph module attached to the movement — forms the heart of the Carrera Calibre 360.

WATCH TESTS

  • REVIVING THE RED X By Witold A. Michalczyk | Germany’s Hanhart salutes the classic pilot’s watch with its limitededition Pioneer Red X, with a revamped movement, eye-catching red hands and indices, a grooved rotating bezel, and domed sapphire crystal.
  • BATTLE OF THE FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPHS By Jens Koch | Ideal for aviators and popular with watch enthusiasts, flyback chronographs measure elapsed time and snap back to zero to start timing again. We compare and contrast two of the category’s heavyweights, Blancpain’s Léman Flyback Big Date and Panerai’s Luminor 1950 Chrono Flyback.
  • STYLISH SWIMWARE By Jens Koch | Germany finally has a high-end divers’ watch to call its own. The Sports Evolution by Glashütte Original boasts an easily adjustable bracelet, a porthole-like viewing pane in the back, and a manufacture movement.
  • CLASSICAL MINUTES By Witold A. Michalczyk | As it approaches 20 years of sustained success in the market, the Chronoswiss Régulateur has inspired a host of other regulator watches and remains an undisputed example of traditional watchmaking.

FEATURES

  • POWER OR AESTHETICS? By Gisbert L. Brunner | Central rotor or microrotor? A roundtable of watch experts weighs in on the debate over which is better in an automatic watch.
  • “WHAT WOULD BREGUET DO TODAY?” By Rüdiger Bucher | In an exclusive interview, Swatch Group chairman and Breguet CEO Nicolas G. Hayek explains why using state-of-the-art silicon technology in Breguet watches is perfectly in keeping with the venerable brand’s tradition.
  • ALL IN THE FAMILY By Rüdiger Bucher | The various styles of pilots’ watches from IWC Schaffhausen, once a diverse lot, have now been unified into a modern, consistent collection.
  • THE REVERSO DARES TO GO SQUARE By Rüdiger Bucher | Celebrating the Reverso’s 75th anniversary, Jaeger-LeCoultre takes its groundbreaking double-faced watch beyond its traditional rectangular confines with the new Reverso Squadra — a Reverso in a square-shaped case.
  • JAEGER-LeCOULTRE’S TRIPLE THREAT By Gisbert L. Brunner | Jaeger-LeCoultre’s other 75th anniversary special takes the Reverso to the next level of innovation with the Grande Complication à Tryptique — a wristwatch with not one, not two, but three faces.
  • MOVADO MARKS A MILESTONE By Norma Buchanan | Movado, the watch brand most renowned for its iconic, Bauhaus-inspired Museum Watch, celebrates its 125 anniversary this year, and it’s pulling out all the stops to show that their repertoire includes more than that famous dial with a dot.
  • CONNOISSEURS: THE PRIME MOVER By Ed Kiersh | Whether it’s the perfect marbling of a dry-aged prime ribeye steak, or the intricate complications of a classic Patek Philippe wristwatch, Long Island restaurateur George Poll has an eye for quality.
  • BLAST FROM THE PAST By Gisbert L. Brunner | Audemars Piguet’s Cabinet No. 5 Millenary Perpetual Calendar with Deadbeat Seconds showcases a new escapement that successfully updates and improves upon a 215-year-old design.
  • WRIST ROYALTY By Rüdiger Bucher | Graham’s King George, a limited-edition tribute timepiece to England’s King George III, combines a tourbillon, minute repeater, and splitseconds chronographs.
  • PRECISION OVER COMPLICATION By Jens Koch | With the Richard Lange, A. Lange and Söhne opts for elegant simplicity and maximum timekeeping accuracy over multiple complications.
  • FACE TO FACE: THE ISLAND BROKER Ed Kiersh | Farhan Vladi makes his living in the world’s most rarefied real-estate market: he sells and rents private islands. Can you guess which watch he wears on his exotic travels?

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